Mailing List

Hello all,

Recently, I received some comments about my mailing list. (Yay!) There is an Aweber Form where you can submit your email address at the bottom of the page in the mobile format and on the right hand side if you are using the desktop version.  Please bear with me as I get things set up to send a message to those who are interested in any new blogs I post!

That is a better way than the notify me button on the commenters page. I love hearing everyone’s comments and the beginnings of support I’m getting for my blog.

Please stay tuned for more!

-Scottie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting to Chontachaka

Today I was finally getting to Chontachaka Ecological Reserve! After an all night bus to Cusco from Arequipa (Ciudad de Blanco), I arrived very early in the morning. Luckily, after I was dropped off at Maximo Nivel the little coffee shop: La Valeriana was open. After refreshing myself on smoothies and a quiche with Tabasco. I was so thrilled to find Tabasco. Peruvian food is not spicy.

Maximo Nivel is an organization based out of Guatemala, Costa Rica and Peru that has programs that helps the locals teaching english. Bringing volunteers in all over the world. They also have Yoga Teacher Certification Classes, Scuba and Surf schools. There facility in Cusco has several classrooms and a computer lab. Even though I applied to volunteer through IVHQ, Maximo Nivel is their affiliate in Cusco.

La Valeriana was such a relief to find. I love local foods and the local culture, but sometimes you need to just relax in an atmosphere that is familiar. Guiltily, I had found similar relief in the Starbucks next to the tourist hub: Plaza de Armas. I wasn’t the only one. Places like Starbucks and La Valeriana are little white person sanctuaries.

When it was time to leave we crammed into a seven seater Hyundai van that seated twelve. It had a rack welded to the roof and was almost like a regular Sportsmobile. The bus took us out of Cusco heading north.

Eventually pavement turned into dirt road as we climbed up and over some mountains before headed down into jungle. The gravel road was single track. The driver would honk before driving around a blind corner to let oncoming traffic know he was coming.

Luckily, there was very little oncoming traffic. When there was usually the other car or us would pull into a wider patch of road for the other to pass. When we finally arrived at the reserve all you saw was a bench with a palm roof. The driver honked, but when no one came we looked around and noticed a path leading into the jungle. We grabbed our stuff and walked.

We didn’t have to walk far before we found the zip line that would cross the river. On the other side of the river we got our first glimpse of the reserve. After sending our luggage across we went two at a time pulling ourselves to the other side. Once there we were greeted warmly by the monitors. We had only arrived, but it was quite the adventure.

Colca Canyon and Arequipa


While visiting Colca Canyon and Arequipa, I enjoyed the majestic vistas and soaring Condors before enjoying the city’s Plaza de Armas. After an early breakfast, the bus picked us up and we started the drive to Colca Canyon. We had a few stops along the way. The first stop was at a nearby town square. The highlight of this town was the church was at least a few hundred years old. The locals had found a serious gold mine however in the way of tourism. In the middle of a square there was a fountain with young Peruvian children dancing halfheartedly. When they realized that a tourist was watching they would pick it up for a little while. There was another child who would find the tourists taking pictures and ask for money.

Other locals were selling the same wears that you see for sale everywhere. There was a few variations based on location because most of them do seem to be made in Peru, but for the most part everything is very similar. The biggest variation I found here was there was about three different women who had Falcons on their shoulders.

A tourists who was interested in a picture would approach and the lady would put the raptor on your shoulder for someone to take a picture. They didn’t have a set cost for how much it would be to take a picture it was more of a “donation”. I will admit I took a picture with one of these birds. There were also women with Llamas and Alpacas with decorated ear pieces that you could take pictures with as well.

After we left and we continued on the bus we stopped at a lookout point at the edge of the Canyon. As always there were a few vendors and people with Llamas to take pictures with from a vantage point. This time I couldn’t resist and got a picture with a Llama.

You should be careful that you pay the women with the particular Llama that you took the picture with. Since I took a picture with two different women I gave them each a “donation”. I don’t mean to insult the locals who are trying to make money. The tourism trade is huge and probably an easy way for them to make extra money. The best part however is that what the women are wearing is actually what a lot of them wear on a day to day basis. While in the Cusco and Arequipa areas you would see women dressed similarly, though maybe not so flashy, while going about their day.

It seems the men and younger generations are the only ones really straying from tradition. The people of Peru are a mixed race of Native Americans and Spanish. However, Quechua, the language of the Incas is still widely known as a second language throughout Peru. So much so that most of the older generation don’t even know Spanish. While in Cusco, we were once told by a waiter that Quechua was the language of his heart.

Next stop was Colca Canyon and it was amazing. The bus dropped us off at a viewpoint that was actually very busy with tourists. I noticed that there was a trail that took you to several other look out points with less people.

When it comes to avoiding crowds and less tourists, I have come to learn that if you put in a little effort to go do somewhere that is a little more difficult to get to there is generally a lot less people.

As I came to one vantage point and was taking pictures of the local birds, three condors in succession flew directly above us. Their wingspan was immense and they glided past us. I assume, looking for lunch. The Incas had great respect for the Condors. Since they played a great part in Incan religion. There were temples and even towns dedicated to Condors.

Colca Canyon was the highlight of the trip. Every step I go I seem to be running from crowds of tourists, but it’s still been worth every moment. The immensity of Colca Canyon was breathtaking along with it’s inhabitants.

Once on our way back, we made a couple more stops. Once we stopped to by ice-cream made by some local women who harvested the fruit from a local cactus to make it. The texture and taste was very similar to kiwis, but a little more tart. The amount of cactus here is amazing.

It took about three to four hours in the tour bus to get back to Arequipa. I had a couple of hours before I needed to head to the train station so I had a chance to do a little sightseeing. Luckily, I was dropped off close to Arequipa’s Plaza de Armas and Santa Catalina Church. After walking around and finding some interesting antique shops, I really understood why Arequipa was called “The White City.”

Though I was there a very short time, the feeling that I received from Arequipa was that it hadn’t been taken over by the throngs of tourists. Even though it’s Lima’s second largest city, it still kept some of it’s old school charm. I got this feeling after seeing a number of antique stores. Normally, I have no interest in antique stores, but finding a antique store in Peru was like walking into a museum.

Later, I was taken to the bus station and after a 10 bus ride I had arrived back in Cusco. Even though an incredible amount of time was spent on a bus, I am very grateful I take a few days and be able to spend it seeing another part of Peru.

Traveling from Cusco to Chivay

A little excitement when the car to pick me up from the tour agency was late. Luckily, after running through the bus station we were able to stop the bus from leaving. The attendant wasn’t happy, but I was.

The bus was two story coach with comfortable seats. I didn’t realize how exhausted I was and slept through the 10 hour trip. We arrived in Arequipa a bit early so I was able to collect myself before another car came and picked me up.

He took me to a hotel which I thought we would be staying at that night so I left my bag there. A tour bus came within 30 minutes to pick me up and we started our trip to Chivay.

After leaving the outskirts of Arequipa we began the slow climb to pass over a volcano with a few stops for pictures along the way. You can see in the picture below the many small rock mounds. The people here believe that by building one you are making a home for a mountain spirit and you can make a wish. You can tell the tourists go a little crazy over it.

We had lunch in the town of Chivay, they served local quinoa, trout and what looked al pat like crawfish. I really love all the soups that they serve. It seems there is always a soup as part of the meal and they are by far my favorites, especially the quinoa.

After lunch, I found my hotel which was luckily close to the main square and markets. The market and main square had a couple shops geared towards tourists, but the main bulk of the stalls were for everyday shopping. The locals, though used to tourists would still give me a quizzical glance. After walking around and getting a feel for a small Peruvian town it was time to go to the local hotsprings.

At the hotsprings there were (15 Soles admission) there were five different pools of differing temperature. Pool #5 was the coolest and where you could find most of the tourists. There were Pisco Sour and beer for sale, along with of course swim suits and towels. Pool #1 was the hottest. I tried the hottest pool, but could only stay in for very long. You could tell that the locals really enjoyed these hotsprings since there were more locals than tourists.

I was impressed by the facilities. If you forgot a bathing suit then you could rent one or buy one from one of the stands outside. Every pool had a place to buy refreshments. Towels were inexpensive to rent. There were bathrooms, shower and changing facilities aplenty. The most convenient part was that they gave you a key to a locker as you entered the pool area. They had it pretty well figured out.

After spending sometime there we were taken back to the hotel. I opted out of dinner and the live show because I wanted to stay back and enjoy my hotel room. This isn’t very travel minded, but after spending so much time around people and on a bus I just wanted some alone time. A big part of this was due to the fact it was the last time I would be able to use wifi and communicate with important people in my life for a couple of weeks.

Overall, a lot of time on buses. There is something soothing about sitting on a bus and watching the landscape pass by. Especially, new and interesting landscape.

How to make a Pisco Sour

How to make a Pisco Sour!

A Pisco Sour seems to be the National Drink of Peru. They can be purchased anywhere and besides beer is the most common drink. Even though the drink was made straight Pisco, it was very popular to infuse the Pisco with other ingredients. They would do this by putting strawberries, oranges, pineapple or even ginger in the bottles along with the Pisco. After giving it sometime to sit the drinks made with those infusions would have great flavors!

If a Pisco Sour is the national drink then Pisco is the national liquor. I’m sure you can find it at most specialty liquor or large liquor stores. Also, it can be found online.

After watching a couple bartenders and taking a class here is the results of my notes!

3 oz pisco
1 oz simple syrup
1 oz egg white
1 oz lime juice

Shake until cocktail is very white. Should only take one minute.
Strain and poor 3 times until glass is full.
2-3 drops angostura bitters on foam.

Enjoy!

I would highly recommend while visiting Cusco that you visit the Museum of Pisco! They had many, many infusions of Pisco and the bartenders and staff were very friendly! We had a great time and it’s a definite must!

http://museodelpisco.org/

 

7 Essentials for the Inca Trail

The 7 Essentials for the Inca Trail that I was most grateful to have with me on the trail and made a huge difference in my comfort level. Given my experience was during the November rainy season.

1. Poncho: These can be purchased in Cusco for five soles from many shops. They are super lightweight and a must for keeping you and your gear dry.
2. Bug Spray: The mosquitos were very tiny and a little ruthless. You could definitely tell who had left their bug spray at home.
3. Acclimatize to the Altitude: The altitude is no joke. Even though it effects people different I was amazed the difference I felt in myself when we just landed in Cusco… and this is a person who lives at 7,300ft/2,250m. STAY HYDRATED.
4. Walking sticks: These can be purchased from shops in Cusco or in Olleytambo. They range from telescopic technical walking sticks to two wooden poles cut to your height. These help you walk straighter and can really save your knees on descents.
5. Waterproof pack cover: If your bag is too big for the poncho or you just want to be more comfortable this was a big help.
6. Warm clothes with Layers: There were days that started out cold and ended very warm as we descended in elevation. Being able to slowly remove layers as the weather warmed was great. However, having a beanie and gloves was a lifesaver.
7. Extra socks: I kept a pair to sleep in at night and an extra incase my feet got wet. Our guide showed us a good trick by putting your feet into smaller plastic bags. Even though your shoes may get wet your socks won’t and it keeps your feet warm.

Hope this list helps you on your next adventure! Is there something that you were very happy to have on the trail? Please share!

Heading Towards the Peruvian Amazon with IVHQ!

Today, I will be heading towards the peruvian amazon with IVHQ! A bus is scheduled to take me on a 6 to 10 hour journey from Cusco to the buffer zone of the Manu National Park. While there I will be working with a program called International Volunteer Headquarters (IVHQ) doing their Jungle Conservation Program.

While there I will be volunteering to help rebuild a part of the Manu National Park that has been most affected by human impact. I´ll be there for two weeks before flying back home and concluding this amazing journey. Since the facilities are very rustic please be patient for more updates! I have heard there is internet in a nearby town, but I may not always be able to get there to post.

Stay Tuned!

 

Macchu Picchu

Since we were a bit untraditional due to timing getting off the Inca Trail we were able to spend a night in a hostel at Agua Calientes. Agua Calientes is the town at the base of Machu Picchu and thrives on the tourism brought in from Machu Picchu. Agua Calientes means “Hot Water” due to the amount of hotsprings that are located in the town. The town is very small and used to be farming land before tourism made it what it is today. In the town there is many hotels/hostels, restaurants, massage parlors and souvenir shops.

The next morning we had an early 5am to get on an early bus up to Machu Picchu. The bus ride takes 25 to 30 minutes and takes the switch backs up to the city. Once there our guide, Alex, moved us along through the bathrooms and made sure we had enough water. This was important because there is not bathrooms, foods or snacks sold in Machu Picchu city.

Once through the control station, Alex begun our two hour tour of the city. Having a guide is a must otherwise you will really have a much less appreciation for the history and the culture of the Incan people. What was amazing to me was their stone work and knowledge of dates.

Once the tour was complete, we had about an hour before our time slot to climb Wayna Picchu. Wayna Picchu is known as the mountain west of Machu Picchu and over looks the city. There are three time slots to climb Wayna Picchu: 8am-9am, 9am-10am and 10am to 11am. These time slots are important because that is the time frame you have to pass through the control station to start the hike. They won’t start ushering you down until about one o’ clock.

The hike starts out descending slightly into this little valley before starting up steep switch backs. It took about 45 minutes of climbing to get to the top. On the way you passed platforms to take pictures and to get to the very top you have to crawl through a tight cave. Once at the top, you had spectacular panoramic views of the Macchu Picchu, the Urubamba River and the mountains surrounding.

To get down you must follow a loop down. There was another trail that took you to more Incan ruins. The way down had very steep, narrow stone steps that ran along ancient Incan farming terraces. Yes, the Incans basically carved farming terraces on the sides of very steep mountains.

On the way up and down we noticed that there were several people were having a difficult time with how steep the steps were. I would not recommend this trail for anyone who has height issues.

Once down to the bottom and back through the control station, we got our bus tickets back down to Aguas Calientes. Once down in Agua Calientes we had enough time to pick up our baggage from the hostel, pick up some snacks for the train ride back to Olleytambo and find the train station. We were in the Expedition class seats (coach) and it was really nice. The train cars had windows in the roofs so that you may look up and see the high mountains as you followed the Urubamba river.

Once back to the city of Olleytambo, the guide service picked us up and drove us back to our hostel in Cusco. So in short, to get to/ from Macchu Picchu you will need to have a train and bus service. Having a guide service handle this for us was very helpful. Once we got off the train in Olleytambo there did seem to be a lot of people who could provide a taxi service back to Cusco. However, after a 3 hour train ride and another 3 hours back to Cusco I can’t imagine that was convenient.

Overall, we are exhausted, but had an amazing trip! So happy to be able to have done the Incan Trail and seeing the ancient city!

Inca Trail: Day Three – Arriving at Macchu Picchu!

On day three of the Inca Trail we would be arriving at Macchu Picchu! After deciding that we didn’t want to battle the amount of people who were going to be racing to the Sun Gate on our fourth day we decided to arrive at Macchu Picchu on the afternoon of the third day.

We started hiking around 6am and we were the first group to leave the campsite. The night before it had rained pretty hard and was still drizzling that morning. There was a fog that clung to the mountains and it was beautiful. We had a good breakfast that the porters prepared and then put all our rain gear on. The trail was a gradual ascending and desending as we hiked on mostly original paths.

Eventually, we started descending and after walking for about 4 hours we got to our first Incan site of the day. We stayed and took some pictures before descending more to the lunch place. The Lunch place was right next to another Incan site and the control place to continue on to the Sun Gate. After going through the control station it was about an hour of walking to the Sun Gate. What was nice about this whole day was we hardly saw any other tourists on the trail. We were the last to pass through the control station so the whole way there was no one else.

Once we got through the Sun Gate, we got our first glimpse of Machu Picchu! The Sun gate is located east of the city and by this time it was late afternoon so the sun was giving the city a golden glow. Another hour of walking and we were in the city! Again, with very few people around. It was spectacular.

We jumped on the last bus of the day heading down to Aguas Calientes and our guide took us to a restaurant where the Porters had prepared our final meal with them. It’s traditional on the last night of the trek to give the Porter’s tips and give thanks for how hard they worked.

Once done with dinner we headed to our hostel for the night. It had been amazing day! Even though it would have been great to spend another night on the trail (usually the third night was spent where we had lunch) I’m glad we were able to experience the Sun Gate and Machu Picchu without the hustle and bustle of a crowd.

Inca Trail: Day Two


We woke up to the porters bringing us hot tea (Coca if we preferred) and hot water to wash ourselves around 5am. After packing and changing we walked to the eating tent to find a delicious spread waiting for us. The day started cold and drizzly and by the time we got higher up toward’s the first peak we needed to climb that day we were in our ponchos.

Our guide, Alex, seemed to always like getting us up before the rest of the tourists. Previously, he taught history at a Peruvian secondary school and now had been a guide for the Peruvian Amazon, Inca trail and surrounding areas. You could tell he loved being outside and photography. He had a special eye for different flora and fauna on the trail and could name every plant, bird, tree and bug. He was especially proud of his heritage being part Inca.

That day we hiked almost 6 hours up and over Dead Women’s Pass, which is the highest point of the trek at (4200m/13,779ft) and then descending to a valley for lunch. The descent was harder than the ascent due to steep rocky steps.

After lunch we ascended for another hour to reach the second pass of the day and then were able to descend again to the campsite for the night. Overall, it took us almost 12 hours with lunch to hike 16 km/10 miles. We were one of the slowest groups, but I felt that was alright because we took a lot of time to stop and enjoy the scenery. Also, we enjoyed the two Incan sites we were able to explore that day.

At first I felt like I wanted to compete with the rest of the tourists, but I didn’t travel all that way just to charge through. Stopping to enjoy a part of the world that is very different then the one I am used to was amazing. It especially helped that our guide was so knowledgeable and passionate for his job.

The campsite for the night was called Chaquicocha (3600m/ 11,800ft) and was framed by several mountains with amazing views. Even though it had drizzled throughout the day the scenery was still beautiful. Definitely, a difficult day, but so worth it.