Chontachaka Butterfly Trail

Since it was sunny one morning during breakfast and the weather looked like it would hold out for a while a group of us decided to head out on the longest trail. The Butterfly or Mariposa Trail is known to be a must for volunteers staying at Chontachaka.

The trail was about one hour and forty-five minutes uphill from the lodge. The ground going up was very soft and not to be trusted. At one point my right leg broke through a hole up to my hip. I had to scramble out of it. Mostly, it was best to step on tree roots.

Once at the top the view was amazing. We could even possibly see into Bolivia. Though I saw a lot of ants on the trail I didn’t see any butterflies. Not sure why it got it’s name. The trail was a bit rough since there is a lack of people using it. At some points we had to do some trail clearing. Otherwise, it was a great trail and would highly recommend it to other volunteers.

10 Things I learned after Spending Two Weeks in the Amazon

  1. The Religion is Bug Spray. You may be catholic, christian, agnostic, hindu, buddhist or aethiest. You still cover your body with a religious frequency.  I really liked Ben’s Bug Spray which can be found here.784606
  2. A machete may not be the right tool for the job, but it’s the only tool for the job. Even if there is a shovel or a pick axe handy everyone still goes straight for the machete.
  3. It’s okay if you’re not the leader of the pack… or the runner up. Let someone else walk into those spider webs. If you are the leader walking on trail then you better be waving that machete around.
  4. Oh, so you think you’re walking on solid ground? Oops, sorry that’s a humongous gaping hole. Tree roots are best for walking.
  5. Everything has fleas.
  6. Jungle time is a lot like Island time just expect everything to happen at least 20 minutes behind schedule.
  7. Even after washing your clothes with soap they will still smell dank.
  8. Also, if you don’t hang your clothes to dry in the sun they will stay wet for days.
  9. You will see some of the most beautiful insects you could imagine.
  10. There are beautiful streams and rivers everywhere. Most of them all have some kind of amazing waterfall. It’s amazing bathing in a waterfall. The clear water will give you the most refreshing shower you’ve ever had.

Chontachaka: Reforestation Clearing

On the third day of volunteering I went with the Monitor and the Monitor-to- be to the reforestation lines. Along the “Cock  of the Rock” trail (that I have written about previously) are about 20 different smaller trails that have been cleared for native plants to be re-introduced. These smaller trails have between 2-6 saplings planted at 10 foot intervals.

Several kinds of native trees had been cut from the area for it’s use in furniture making. This has become a problem as these trees are disappearing from the local environment other plants have taken over. The most prevalent aggressive plant species is bamboo.

Since it’s now getting into the rainy season there have been a great number of branches and leaves that are hindering the saplings growth. Our job today was clearing the area where the saplings were trying to go so hopefully they will continue to grow. Along the way the Monitor also took inventory to see which ones were thriving and which ones needed to be replaced.

Chontachaka: Giant Waterfall Hike

One morning after breakfast we started hiking east and above the lodge. The first part of the trail was a steep path, but then as we met a large stream the trail ran parallel to it. Eventually, the trail was the stream.

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The stream was surrounded by tall trees that created a canopy. Letting us hike in the comfort of the shade. The stream was very rocky. At first I was worried about getting water in my boots, but eventually I was just stomping through. Towards the end of the trail there are several large rocks you have to climb. Previous hikers had tied ropes at the top of the rocks to help you climb.

The waterfall was about 35 to 40 feet high and rained down into a shallow pool. The force of the water made it almost windy and the plants that surrounded it seemed to pulsate with the force of the water.

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Paula, the monkey, came on the hike with us. Though she obviously didn’t like water. Being a lazy monkey, every so often she would hitch a ride on someone’s shoulder. It was like having a 15 lb sweaty scarf that can’t balance very well on you. She made it all the way to the waterfall with us, but hung out on a tree that overlooked the waterfall.

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The hike took about three hours and was amazing. I don’t think I have ever felt like such a bad ass. Hiking around the jungle with a machete and a monkey on my shoulder.

Back to Work

After a month traveling around and adventuring my head is ready to go back to work. Yeah, I’m spoiled. For those who don’t know I am a merchant mariner. To make a living and fund my adventures, I work on ships as a glorified diesel mechanic. I am contracted out of a union that has jobs on car carriers, ferries, container-ships, tankers, government ships, etc.

My schedule is to do a vague 3-4 months on and then a few months off. I’m a bit institutionalized. While at work you get into an easy rhythm of work. Eat, work, workout sleep and work some more. You don’t have to worry about clothes because the same five people you have been working with really don’t care. Unless, you smell.

You work at least 8 hours, but average 10 hours everyday. Unless you are sick you don’t get a day off until you get off the ship. So, even though I may go to some amazing places I probably won’t be able to get off the ship. Most port stays are very short for commercial vessels and those short port stays is when the majority of our main engine maintenance is done.

This time I will get on the ship in Japan before crossing the Pacific Ocean through the Panama Canal to the Caribbean before heading up the East Coast of the United States.

I will continue to post about Peru as I work through the content. Please stay tuned!

Chontachaka Laundry Service

Laundry you do yourself. There is a red bucket and scrub brush. You’re expected to use the green bio-degradable soap that came with your toiletry kit. By the stream, there are some flat rocks for you to sit on. As the water runs over the rocks that have been smoothened by the water you can wash your clothes.

Better yet, if you walk a little further down there is a pool big enough for you to wash yourself as you wash your laundry. How ’bout that.

In front of the Dining Bungalow there are several clothes lines. Close to the river and somewhat open space there is enough of a breeze to pass air over your clothes.

Again, a better option is to just lay them out on the rocks by the river. The hot stones will dry your clothes even quicker. Just be careful they don’t get washed downriver. Someone has been collecting clothes, buckets, boots, etc for ages.

Monkey Cuddles

One night after getting ready for bed, I lifted up the mosquito netting, sat down and swung my feet in to be startled by Paula, the resident pet Red Howler Monkey. She was sitting under the mosquito netting at the end of the bed. She gives you this pathetic, wide-eyed look that says: “Are you going to kick me out?” Don’t be fooled.

I slip into my sleeping bag insert and roll onto my side. After a pause she slumps forward semi on my feet and lays her head on one of my heels. Cuddling my feet she stayed there almost the whole night. Sometimes I would gently move her with my feet so I could have more room. She is a bit of a bed hog.

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In the morning as I was rousing from bed. Once she realized that I was sitting up she decided to come play and tried to grab onto my hair like Tarzan. I’m not sure if she was hoping to check for breakfast (fleas) or if she was trying to play.

Either way her grip is not gentle and as I was trying to bat her away she definitely started thinking I was trying to play. It took a little doing since she was jumping on my back, but we were both able to get out of bed. After that she scampered off to see who else she could play with.

The Pets of Chontachaka

There are several pets around that make the Chontachaka Reserve their home. There are two dogs: Princesa and Lugesa, two cats: Luz and Siembra and Paula. Paula is a Red Howler Monkey that was rescued after her mother was killed when she was a baby.

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She is too old to be re-introduced into the wild and is unfortunately very dependent on humans. Referred to as a “professional thief”, she will certainly steal anything shiny or your guacamole. Since there are no walls or doors there is no way to keep her out of the sleeping or dining bungalows. Both she makes her home.

Paula is famous for lifting up the mosquito netting and cuddling with you at night. Early morning on my first day she came and cuddled with me. She curled herself up in the crook of my knee until she heard that breakfast was being prepared. She doesn’t make a lot of noise when she slips in and out of bed with you.

I can’t say I ever thought I would cuddle with a Howler Monkey.

Paula is 15-20 lbs and has deep red fur with a long strong tail. She even sweats orange. She will climb on whatever you’re doing and lay across for a belly rub. Loving human company she will even follow you on hikes. Watch out for her farts and her fleas.

Lugesa, spanish for Duchess, is a puppy owned by the Chef, Juanita. Princesa, spanish for Princess, is an older dog. She looks like a terrier mix. Apparently, when she was a puppy she was hit by a car and the volunteers found her by the river. One of her rear legs is unusable. Still she gets around really well and will follow volunteers on hikes. Princesa is like the protector of the volunteers and will wait for the last person while hiking.

The cats are still kittens and love coming in for a belly rubs. They will often be found on the laps of volunteers. Sometimes Paula will try to play with the cats, but they can really show her who is boss.

Cock of the Rock

“Cock of the Rock” is the english translation for the Peruvian National Bird. At this time during sunrise and sunset they go through with their mating ritual. So one morning with another volunteer started hiking before sunrise to get to the bird stand to observe them. Hiking in the dark, in the amazon was an interesting experience.

One of the many trails that starts from the main lodge is the “Cock of the Rock”. The trail runs parallel to the river, Kosnipata, following it upstream for a little over a mile.

It had rained quite hard the night before so there were many puddles. This and the stream crossings made me very happy to be wearing rain boots. Besides my camera, I had brought a machete. The heavy weather often will cause bamboo and fallen branches to fall on the path. The machete helps clear these obstacles.

The bird is kinda weird looking. The top half is a beautiful orange-red and the bottom half is black. They have a bit of a pompadour on top and a small black beak. Apparently, the birds love rocky rivers.

During the mating ritual, each bird will stand on opposite sides of a tree or the river. The male bird will try to impress the female bird so she will mate with him. I’m not an expert on birds, but it seemed once the female was content with the male’s performance they would fly off.

We watched for about twenty minutes until all the birds had flown off to continue the “cycle of life”. Wink wink. I’m not if I will be heading out before sunrise every morning, but it was an amazing experience walking through the jungle at that hour.

Chontachaka Reserve

After spending a couple days at the Chontachaka Reserve a few things were very clear. The packet of information provided was mostly inaccurate our outdated about the reserve and the work we would be doing. It wasn’t until the orientation I learned the exact location of the place I would be going. This is a lot of faith to place in an organization, but a very good friend of mine had volunteered through IVHQ in Morocco and Vietnam. So I felt confident.

The lodge is located in a buffer zone of the Manu National Park. Most of the park is restricted because there are still indigenous people. These people are isolated from the outside world and mostly left alone by the Peruvian Government.

The lodge “Chontachaka” consists of several buildings including a sleeping bungalows, dining/ kitchen bungalow and greenhouses. All of these buildings have roofs, but are otherwise open to the elements.

The main sleeping bungalow have open “stalls” or rooms for the volunteers with two bed a piece. I call it a stall because it reminds me of a barn that has stalls for horses. Each stall has two beds with mosquito netting put up. There are no doors and the bamboo walls only reach chest height. At the time I am writing this there are only nine volunteers so most of us have our own corral. There are also four bathrooms with showers. The feel of the main sleeping bungalow is quiet, respectful and friendly.

There is no hot water heater, frigerator, Air conditioning unit or anything electrical besides a solar panel placed on top of the dining bungalow. The Solar panel is connected to two light bulbs in the kitchen and over the dining table. Otherwise, there is an inverter with a plug for charging electronics. Since there is no internet or wifi this is seldomly used.

The feel of the place is very earthy and rustic. In the dining bungalow there is tables for card games and a few shelves for books. After working in the mornings the afternoons are free for your own pursuits. Most people after getting dirty and sweaty from working will walk down to the river and wash themselves and their clothes.

There are several trails surrounding the lodge. On the lodge grounds there are several greenhouses. These greenhouses are used for growing seedlings of native plants. They are also used for growing fruits and veggies for the volunteers to eat. This produce includes: corn, beets, lettuce, pineapples, bananas and even cotton.